Aha! You are back and hopefully ready to
read more about our British Virgin Islands adventures. As you probably already
know from previous posts, I like to travel. I like to see new places, meet new
people, and have new experiences. I prefer to do this in person, but on
occasion, I also like to indulge in armchair travel. This has the bonus of
being convenient, inexpensive and in the present age – safe. So, as I indulge
myself in reminiscing about an old trip to BVI, I hope that you will also enjoy
some armchair travelling with me. I hope
that my descriptions will help you see the things that I saw some twenty-five
years ago.
In my last post, I left off after our trip
to Road Town. With the rental car, our range of travel extended exponentially.
Along with the car, we acquired a basic map of Tortola and we set off to
explore every corner of it. One memorable drive was out to Smugglers Cove. The
road turned out to be what can only be described as a dusty track. We weren’t
even 100% sure that we were on the right road, but as there wasn’t anywhere to
turn around we just kept going. It was worth the trip when we emerged to a
beautiful grassy treed area by the ocean. We had a lovely day playing on the
sand and in the water. There was even a bar – can’t remember if it was open or
closed, but parked beside it was one of Ernest Hemmingway’s old cars. What
history!
I don’t remember the names of all the
beaches we visited but mostly they were off the beaten track and mostly fairly
isolated. At one beach a local fisherman called us over to see a barracuda
swimming in the shallow waters. It was a very nasty looking fish with huge
pointed teeth. We didn’t go swimming at that beach.
At another beach, we were very surprised to
see a line of cows come wandering down the sand. We spoke with one of the two young
men who were leading them. Apparently the beach was a short cut from one field
to another and the cows made the trek each day to the greener pasture. We
didn’t swim at that beach either.
One of our best days was a trip to Virgin
Gorda. We took the inter-island ferry to this neighbouring island. Other
tourists on the ferry planned to do an organized bus tour but we had opted for
independent travel plans. I’m not sure just how we came up with our own plan
but we did. We had arranged for a taxi to meet us when the ferry docked and we
took off with our picnic lunch and snorkeling gear for a more secluded beach.
When the taxi driver dropped us off at the
side of the road he promised to be back in time for us to catch the last ferry
back to Tortola. We waved goodbye and then followed a little bush track at the
end of which was the opening to a cave or grotto. This was what we were looking
for.
Inside the cave there was a short stretch
of sand and an area of shallow water to the back of the cave. We had been told
that at the rear of the cave there was a hidden exit around the bend in the
rock and if we followed this it would lead us to the ocean and then around to
an adjacent beach.
I was a bit hesitant but Lyle and the kids
were excited and were soon wading out to the hidden exit and whatever lay
beyond it. When the three of them disappeared from sight, I gathered up our dry
belongings and headed back through the bush to the beach. It seemed like
forever before I saw them coming towards me from the waves. They were even more
excited than before and encouraged me to swim the ocean loop back to the cave.
Although I’m a pretty decent swimmer, I’m
not one for snorkeling. I don’t like the feel of the mouth piece. Anyway, I was
talked into doing the trip in reverse. Jonathan and Jenny stayed on the beach
and Lyle led me back into the water.
I am so glad that I got my nerve up to do
this. The swim was amazing. I think that I have mentioned that my sight was
already diminished, but the goggles seemed to magnify the brilliantly coloured
fish and coral formations. Lyle swam
beside me to lead me back to the ocean entrance of the cave. It was fantastic.
When we finally caught the ferry back to Tortola, while the other tourists were
talking about the fish they had eaten for lunch, we were still filled with the
remembrance of the fish and coral formations we had seen underwater.
We had another chance to do some snorkeling
when we took a sail boat around some of the smaller islands. Because of the
cancellation of another family, we ended up being the only passengers on board and
we had a gloriously relaxed day. The boat was crewed by the owner/captain, his
friend and eight-year-old son. Around noon, the captain dropped anchor near a
small, uninhabited island. He invited us to put on our snorkeling gear and
explore while he prepared our lunch.
Once we climbed down the boat’s ladder, we
found ourselves in the middle of a school of tiny silver fish. It was like
swimming in a capsule. The fish would move out of our way as we stroked forward
and then swarm in behind us again as we passed. In retrospect, it’s likely a good thing that there
weren’t any larger predators – sharks or maybe barracudas around. Fortunately, I
didn’t have this thought at the time and was just able to enjoy the underwater
experience.
There are lots of little snippets that
stand out in memory of this unique family holiday. I am enjoying remembering so
if you are also interested in reading of my memories, I will share a couple
more in my next post.
There is a picture with this post. The
picture is a view of Cane Garden Bay on Tortola. This is the area where we had
our cabin. The ocean was really as blue as it shows in the picture.
 |
Cane Garden Bay on Tortola |